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I make toys for kids who don't want to grow up. I'm on the lookout for new projects. If you're interested in commissioning me to build something ridiculous, shoot me an email.

Wednesday, July 3, 2024

Genestealer Build Update 15: Skulls, Thighs, and Big Ole Tootsies

 Alright.  It's been a while.

When last I posted I mentioned we were molding the creature's skull so we'd have something to hold up the face.  Here's the first skull out of the molds:

First Skull Front

It came out pretty smooth and nice and lightweight.  The black sharpie marks are where we trim it on its way to being a finished thing:
First Skull Cast

Here it is with a 3D printed jaw in place:
Stealer Gramps' Skull

The teeth and gums will be hand sculpted in oil-based clay on their way to being molded and cast in dental acrylic.  The nose and eyebrows were removed so that we can actuate them with servos later.  That's going to be a good time.

The other thing I mentioned in my last post was the completion of the forming bucks for the thighs.  We formed the first pair of thighs and did a quick rough trimming on them, but they're not quite ready to glue together and try on yet:
Formed Thigh Shell

The big cliffhanger ending in the last post was this sketch of the foot mechanism:
Foots Ball Joint Sketch

Since the creature has digitigrade feet (like the hind legs of a dog or cat) we had to come up with a pair of stilts to walk around on.

In order to give them more footprint than the tip of the steel tube they were made of, Jeff modeled up this block that we'll mount to a ball on the bottom of the steel tube before covering it with a big molded rubber sock that will hide everything and look like a Genestealer foot:
Foot Mechanism

I printed the block as he originally designed it, then decided to fair in the hard corners where the toe hinges connect to the foot block:
20240609_201356

Since we're going to mold these blocks and cast them in rubber, I figured we should shave away some of the excess material:
Foot Grinding Honeycomb

After grinding through most of the printed pieces, I remade the new shape with Bondo and started feeling pretty okay about the foot blocks.  Here they are next to one of the foot forms:
Feet Parts Printed and Bondoed

Your eyes do not deceive you, this guy's foots are huge:
Foot Fairing

HUGE:
Big Ole Foot

Still, they're getting faired out and filled in all the same:
Fairing Foot Forms

To attach the internal foot block, we have to cut the steel strut on the bottom of the stilt to the proper length, then weld a steel ball onto the end.  Here's what it looks like digitally:
Stilt Scan Measuring

The ugly ball on the end of the part we cut off is the tennis ball I'd slipped on the end of the strut prior to scanning me in the stilts.

Between my stilts and Jeff's stilts, we'd need to weld four of these assemblies:
Welded Balls

I managed to weld three of them before my dad passed by and said, "you want me to show you how to make that look good?"

"Sure," says I.  

So he knocked out the last one in seconds, reminding me I'm not much of a welder:
Dad Welding Stilt Ball

This is mine on the left and his on the right:
My Weld vs. Dad's Weld

Mine will work, but his is decidedly better looking.

Meanwhile, we'd molded the foot blocks in silicone and it was time to pour some rubber to make a new, stronger pair with a bit of flexibility.  To maximized the ick and remind me what I'm doing, we tinted them plurple:
Pouring the Icky Sticky Floof

The first pair were cast in a dense flexfoam which proved out to be a bad idea.  Still, I was proud of how closely I guessed the exact right amount of material.  Hardly any overflow:
Expanding FLOOF

Nice:
First Cast Foot Block

A second pair was cast in Smooth-Cast 60D for more rigidity and durability:
Stilts with Foot Pad

For an initial test I have bungee cords holding them onto the ball at the bottom of the strut, but I'll come up with something more elegant later:
Stilts with Foot Pads Side

First, it was time to take them for a test run:
Improved Stilts Test

We've shortened them by about four inches since our last trial run, so they're much easier to get around in.  So I'm still wearing the forearm crutches in case I lose my balance and don't want to tear a meniscus or break my coccyx.  But overall, they're coming together nicely:
Improved Stilts Grin

Getting a start on the skin, here's my friend Kegan adding a layer of clay over the hardcoated foot form:
Kegan Sculpts Feets

Right now they look about like so:
Clay Skin on Foot Forms

And they've been added to the bench of sculpts in progress:
Foot Sculpts Begin

Out of all of these sculpts, the five-fingered hands are closest to done:
Sculpts in Progress

They still need a bit more texture and detailing, but they're getting there:
5-Fingered Hand Sculpt

The challenge is that whenever I'm sculpting some weird little detail on one of them:
Hand sculpting

I get distracted by the other one and have to fix some other weird little detail on it instead:
Other Hand Sculpting

Still, they're almost ready to mold.

Next I'll be finishing up polishing the claws for the three-fingered hands:
Claw Shaping

Once I have all the hands and the feet sculpted, all that's left is the head and the big shorts.

For the shorts, I finally hardcoated the 3D print:
Happy Brushing

Later I decided it would be easier if I sculpted and molded and cast the tail separately.  So I cut it off and mounted it to a board all by itself.  Here I am contemplating it:
Tail Sculpt Contemplation

That thing is...

Yeah.

Stay tuned.  The pace is picking up now that we're almost done making the hard parts.

Sunday, June 9, 2024

Genestealer Build Update 14: Chest Parts, Hand Parts, Leg Parts, Foot Parts, and So Many Parts.

It's been a while since the last update.  I was under the weather for a few days and had to scramble like mad to complete a few unrelated projects right before that, but otherwise, I can assure you that the Genestealer build has been screaming right along.

As of our last update we'd printed the sculpting base for the waist, hips, and tail.  Since then, I've done a bit of work smoothing the whole thing out:
Waist Master Smoothing

Waist master Smoothing

It'll get a few more minutes of prep work, then I'll layer on a couple coats of epoxy to make it shiny and smooth prior to sculpting out the texture for the skin.

In the last update, we'd also lifecast some copies of my hands and my friend Ian's hands so we'd have a starting point to sculpt the creature's hands.  I decided to start by making claws for the five-fingered hands which will eventually be integrated into the silicone skin once we get to casting those.  I started by smoothing out the hand casts and giving them a coat of Epsilon Pro epoxy:5 Fingered Hands in Epoxy

The three-fingered hands still need a bit more smoothing, so at this point they're not mounted on bases or coated in epoxy yet.

Once the epoxy had cured, I covered the fingertips with plastic wrap and masking tape, then used Magic Sculpt epoxy putty to sculpt out some finger extensions and claws:
Rough Claw Sculpts

Once the Magic Sculpt had cured, I popped the claws off of the lifecast fingers and tried them on:
Rawr

Pretty schnazzy:
Rough Claw Sculpts Cured

Then I spent some quality time sanding and shaping and polishing up each individual fingertip before giving them all a coat of glossy lightish red paint:
Smoothed and Shiny Claw Sculpts

The next day, after the paint dried, my friend Rachel went ahead and made molds of them.  When the molds were cured and ready to go, she cast a set of the claws in urethane resin which I glued back onto the lifecast hands:
5-Fingered Hands Ready to Sculpt Skin

Now they're ready for me to sculpt out the shape of the skin for the hands.  The final claws will be cast in urethane rubber to make them safe for whoever the character might bump into.

Meanwhile, the three-fingered hands got a bit of sanding and smoothing and a couple coats of epoxy:
3=Fingered Hands Epoxy Coated

Geri the shop husky helped in his not-so-helpful way:
Shop Dog is an Idiot

From the last update, we'd just stared adding the cardboard edges to the chest piece:
Upper Chest Ready for Clay Margins

Once the cardboard was glued on, I layered over it with oil-based clay to give us mold margins.  Then the whole thing was coated with PVA:
Upper Chest Ready to Mold

After the PVA dried, the whole assembly was coated with orange tooling gelcoat:
Upper Chest Gelcoated

Then I built up a few layers of fiberglass on top of the whole thing:
Chest Master Wrapped in Fiberglass

"But wait!" you exclaim, "with all of those overhangs and undercuts, you've now locked the master into the mold!  There's no way you'll ever get it out."

You'd be right, of course.  I'll have to cut the mold apart.  But first, I'll have to add flanges so I can put it back together afterwards.  I start by marking the places where I'll separate the mold with a Sharpie:
Parting Lines Marked Out

Then I bust out this nifty little air saw because it has a very skinny blade and cuts a very small kerf:
Ye Olde Aire Sawwe

I cut along each line stopping just short of each intersection.  This leaves the tiniest little tab connecting the pieces together so the whole thing doesn't just fall apart:
Cutting the Parting Lines

With all of the cutting done, the chest looked like so:
Parting Lines Cut

Then, to create the flanges, I inserted sections of aluminum flashing into the cuts:
Flashing Inserted into Cuts

Then I used aluminum ducting tape to connect all of the parts and make them as smooth as I can:
Flashing Taped

Then I go back and layer up fiberglass over all of the sheet metal shims to create the mold flanges:
Chest With Flanges Glassed Over

The next day, Rachel drilled bolt holes into the flanges and pried the parts of the mold apart:
Rachel Demolding Chest Master

It ended up being a lot of parts:
Chest Mold Sections

Fortunately, I had her in the shop to wet sand and polish all of these parts in preparation for casting:
Chest Mold Parts Angle

After the mold sections were wet sanded and waxed, they were coated with a liberal amount of PVA release and bolted back together:
Chest Mold Ready for Layup

Jeff mixed up a batch of gelcoat and we got started laying up the fiberglass:
Jeff Pouring Gelcoat

I didn't take photos of myself laying up the glass for the chest, but once it was out of the mold, I did a quick and dirty test fitting:
Upper Chest Section in Place

The chest and back mate up perfectly.  So next time I'm doing any fiberglassing, I'll bond them together permanently.

Now I just need to finalize the shape of the last piece of the chest.  Then I can mold it and glass it and that'll be that:
Lower Chest Section

The only other fiberglass piece to be done is the inner skull that will be built into the head.  I started with a 3D printed skull that was given a quick bit of prep before filling in the eye and nose holes:
Skull Master Smoove

The jaw will be made separately.

Once the skull was smoothed out, it was coated in epoxy:
Epoxy Coat to Smoove Skull Master

Shiny:
Shiny Skull Master

Here's a shot of Jeff trying it on after the epoxy coat had set up:
Jeff Trying on Skull Master

Silly Jeff.

Prior to molding, I used a hacksaw to cut a seam down the centerline:
Prepping Skull Master for Molding

Jeff built up the cardboard and clay margins around the bottom edge of the skull.  Then I inserted the flashing for the parting wall and gave both sides a heavy layer of PVA:
Skull Master with Parting Wall and PVA Coat

Then gelcoat:
Skull Master in Gelcoat

After laying up the fiberglass, the mold cured and I popped the halves apart:
Skull Master Demolding

Then the edges were trimmed, the molds were wet sanded, and then waxed.  Here's the two halves being force dried in front of the fan between layers of wax:
Skull Molds Drying

Tomorrow I'll lay up the first fiberglass underskull.

On a completely separate note, I finished carving out the forming bucks for the thighs.  Here's the inner thigh forms all stacked up and assembled:
Inner Thigh Forming Bucks

And here's the inner thighs with the outer right thigh in the middle of smoothing out the seams:
Thigh Forms Assembled

I still need to assemble the outer left thigh:
Last Thigh Form Carved

Once that's done, I can hurry up and vacform the shells for the thighs.  While I'm doing that, Jeff is fine-tuning the models for the lower leg shells and then we'll have all of the hard parts done in pretty short order.

Speaking of Jeff, we've done the fiberglass work on his pair of stilts:
Jeff's Stilts

And we've got the earliest beginnings of the foot parts coming together.  This little benchtop sketch is the beginning of where we're going with those:
Foots Ball Joint Sketch

Stay tuned.  Things are about to speed up.