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Tuesday, February 20, 2024

Genestealer Build Update 6: Face Sculpting Begins

When we last looked at this project, the armature for the head was printed, hardcoated, and layered over with a 1/8" thick skin of Chavant NSP oil-based clay.  It looked about like so:
Rainy Day Needs More Sculpting

The first problem was the big, empty, soulless eye sockets.  So I found some hollow acrylic Christmas ornaments (you can order them here: LINK), painted them red on the inside, and glued them in place:
Eyeball inserts

Later, when we mold the final sculpt, the eyes, nostrils, and mouth area will provide contact points that will hold the core of the mold in place.  This is a key plot point that should be remembered for later.

With the eyes in place, all that I had left to do was flesh out all of the details and texture the skin to look like an actual critter, and make sure there was adequate thickness before molding and casting in rubber.

The trick is, while I've been familiar with genestealers in one way or another ever since I was about thirteen years old,* I didn't have the clearest picture of some of the minor details in my head.  I needed to have some references on hand to guide my hand while I was sculpting my little beastie here.  

So I scoured an internet to find some images and made a "mood board" to work off of.  Genestealers have seen some subtle changes over the years, so I ended up with pics of the miniatures, artwork from the various codexes and rulebooks over the years, and screen captures from some video games.  I'll incorporate aspects of all of these into the sculpture as I work:
Mood Board

So with the mood board and the beginning of the sculpture set up on the bench, all I needed was to grab my tools and get to work:
Workstation Ready

Speaking of tools, here's me:
Jackass Ready

I didn't make a hell of a lot of progress in the one afternoon I set aside for this last week, but with just a bit of smoothing and the simple addition of eyelids, this guy started developing a personality:
HUUURMAGEHRD!

He's already looking a little sinister, or judgmental, or maybe a bit stoned:
Hey, man!  You got any weed?

But anyway, that's the current state of the head sculpture:
Work in Progress

Meanwhile, I've been molding the carapace.  This started with hot gluing cardboard around the margins and building up clay walls on the sides:   GS Carapace Placed on Rolling Workstand

Then a generous coat of PVA mold release** before applying gelcoat:
GS Carapace Right Edge Gelcoated

After laying up the fiberglass for the sides, I got started on the ends.  Here's the forward end marked out once I'd determined placement for the parting line:
20240214_204551

Then the clay parting wall built up and covered with PVA mold release:
End Section with Mold Release

Then gelcoat:
20240216_000545

Here I am laying up the fiberglass on the front end:
20240216_135017

I spent most of this time working upside down while my assistant Rachel laid up the glass on the much more complex contours of the back end section.  That part looked like this before gelcoat and fiberglass were applied:
20240215_234812

Once the end pieces had cured solid, we could now place the whole thing upright and rest the weight on the mold sections instead of the shell.

I decided to start with the left side first and built up a clay parting wall lengthwise down the middle:
The right side we'll get to later

Then split the left side into four segments to eliminate any chance of the mold locking down onto the master:
Third Left Carapace Segment with PVA Mold Release

So last night I gelcoated the first two segments of the left side:
First Set of Back Segments Gelcoated
Once I finish laying up fiberglass on these two sections, I'll remove the parting walls between them, apply more PVA mold release, then gelcoat and glass the remaining two segments.

Then I can repeat this process for the four parts of the other side of the mold.

It sounds like a major pain in the ass, but that's only because it's a major pain in the ass.  If this were a paying project and I had the budget for it, I'd be making a silicone rubber mold jacket with a two-piece fiberglass mothermold and the part would come out seamless and have no flashing to clean off.  But since this is a low-budget hobby project I'm spending less money and a bit more time to make it this way.


*Trust me, that's a very long time.

**PVA stands for "PolyVinyl Alcohol."  You didn't actually need to know this, but now you do.  You're welcome.  I've now used up a couple of little synapses that will sit and rot in a corner of your brain for the rest of you life instead of doing something useful for you. 


2 comments:

  1. > PVA stands for "PolyVinyl Alcohol." You didn't actually need to know this, but now you do.
    I did need to know. I tried casting a fiberglass part from MDF sealed with wood glue, which I knew was PVA. Unfortunately, that PVA stands for polyvinyl acetate. The part did not release and the project got abandoned.

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  2. Yeah, no. The white glue PVA and the mold release PVA are not the same thing, but I can see how you got there.

    Always good to try to save a few dollars where you can, but often times there's nothing more expensive than starting over.

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